How Can Sugar Be Good For You?

So how can sugar be good for you? We all know that we are suppose to avoid eating sugary sweets. But there are different kinds of sugar that can benefit us and should be included in our diets.

Basically there are two kinds; refined sugar and natural sugar. Natural sugar is found in fruits, some vegetables, and some other whole foods. This kind of sugar is great for fueling the body. Sugar is known to give us that jittery feeling known as the "sugar high". It like is when a kid has a bowl of sugary cereal for the first time and ends up going crazy. Sugar makes us want run around. If you work out then you can use it as your advantage to get some energy. However I am not saying to have a bowl of sugar loaded cereal before going for a jog. I am saying that refined sugar should be avoided while the natural kind found mostly in fruits supply our bodies with the best kind of sugar. Refined sugar is more processed and ends up turning into fat.

That also explains why many people eat fruit instead of cake and ice cream when dieting. It is to satisfy the sugary craving. I think everyone has a sugar tooth to some degree. So the point is that you should have the natural kind of sugar before you workout or earlier in the day so you burn it off going through the daily activities. You may have a sugary sweet from time to time but have it early in the day so you are more likely to burn it off.

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Sugar Gliders II, (Petaurus Breviceps)

A more detailed show of sugar gliders. Sugar gliders can be found all throughout Northern and Eastern Australia, along with the surrounding islands of Tasmania, Papua New Guinea, and Indonesia. They can be found in any forest where there is food supply but are commonly found in forests with eucalyptus trees. They are nocturnal, sleeping in their nests during the day and active at night. [3] At night is when they hunt for insects and small vertebrates and feed on the sweet sap of certain species of eucalyptus, acacia and gum trees. [4] The Sugar Glider is named for its preference for sweet foods and its ability to glide through the air, much like a flying squirrel.[5][6] When suitable habitats are present, sugar gliders can be seen 1 per 1000 square meters provided that there are tree hollows available for shelter. They live in groups of up to seven adults, plus the current season's young, all sharing a nest and defending their territory, an example of helping at the nest. A dominant adult male will mark his territory and members of the group with saliva and a scent produced by separate glands on the forehead and chest. Intruders who lack the appropriate scent marking are expelled violently. [7]

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Bringing Your New Ferret Home For the First Time

Bringing your new ferret home can be an exciting experience. On the other hand, previous to allowing your new friend free in your house it would be a good idea to consider a few important things first.

Allowing your new friend to scurry around your residence in a befuddled and unruly manner is in no way a good plan. It is important for them to get used to their new situation slowly and carefully. They need time to acclimate in a less disorganized and more relaxing way. Keeping them in the confines of their cage for awhile helps your new pet feel safe and sheltered and allows them to get accustomed to their new habitat slowly. They ought to remain in their cage until you sense they are prepared to move forward no matter how long it takes.

After you've brought your new animal home, one of the first items on your list ought to be litter training them. If you wait too long to start litter training it may make it impossible to train them at all. The longer you spend training, the better the probability of having a pet that is completely litter trained. Nevertheless, no matter how well you think the training went you will likely still observe an occasional accident in your home.

After waking up from a nice sleep and immediately after eating are the ideal times to do your education. These times are most ideal for lessons. Keep a close eye on them so you'll know when they've just awakened from a siesta or after they've finished eating. When either of these actions occurs, take them into a bathroom right away and put them into their litter box. Be certain they are not allowed out until they've completed their task, which ordinarily takes only a few minutes. After they have finished their job reward them with a tasty treat. They will eventually learn that whenever they do a good deed they will be given a treat.

The more unfailing you are with this routine, the better your odds are of ending up with a well trained ferret. If you let your pet to run wild around your home and play, there will unavoidably be an occasional mishap. This will certainly make it harder and longer to properly litter train your animal. If you can't get them to use the litter box each time, they will probably not learn quickly. However, if they ever have an accident they should never be punished for it, either vocally or physically.

"Ferret proofing" your dwelling is another preparatory job that ought to happen prior to giving them a chance to scamper around without restraint. Skipping this job can lead to injuries or worse. Ferrets are inquisitive creatures and will survey each and every place in your house. If your dwelling has not been given an exhaustive inspection, they can discover areas where they can get hurt or escape.

Get down on your hands and knees and check out every area in your home for any small holes that could lead to problems. And don't just look on the ground; look everywhere at every height. Ferrets are superb climbers and might surprise you with where they will climb. No spot in your dwelling ought to be considered out of their reach.

Be very thorough when checking your home for these hidden dangers since it only takes one unrecognized hazard to bring about injury or worse for your ferret. You may be of the opinion that you simply need to leave your ferret in its cage all day to avoid these issues. That may well be correct, but what kind of life would such an energetic animal have being in solitary incarceration all day long? Offer your ferret a safe environment that allows them a chance to scurry around and enjoy life a little and they will be happier for it.

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Species of Hermit Crabs in Their Natural Environment

Have you ever wondered what the life of hermit crab in their natural environment is like? It is natural, while you are gazing into your crabs' home, to imagine that you are watching a wildlife documentary of "Species of hermit crabs in the wild". The more you learn about your pet's natural habitat the more able you will be to provide her with a healthy and happy home.

These crabs are one of the most exotic and fascinating pets you can own today. They are quite social animals despite having the name - hermit, and they are far from "crabby". In fact, it is suggested that you purchase more than one hermit crab so that they will have friends to play with. You might want to purchase a larger tank than you originally planned in order to have room for all his roommates.

In the natural world crabs are found in tropical areas around or near oceans. The main reason for this is that crabs not only crave, they require, humidity! Crabs are only able to breathe in humid environments due to the fact that they use gills to breathe with.

Let's Bury our Heads in the Sand

If you are a crab, you love to borrow in the sand. You love to inspect and examine anything you come in contact with. Instead of going around an object, or even another crab, you are as likely to dig underneath them. That is why they love the sand so much. This inquisitive nature sometimes can create problems especially when it comes in contact with another crab.

Connection to Water

These crabs lay their eggs in the sand by the ocean. When the tide rolls in the eggs are washed out to sea. There they hatch and begin to develop into small crabs. Survival depends on a crab's ability to breathe in water. Hermit crabs have gills similar to fish that allows for them to be able to breathe in water. It is a fascinating tale the life of a hermit crab from birth in the ocean to life on the land.

The shell is where a hermit crab lives. Shells provide them shelter and protection. When these crabs begin their journey to land they are very, very small. When they arrive at the shore they are a mere 5 mm in length. Finding a home, a very tiny shell, is their first job when they reach land.

Humidity, Humidity, Humidity

Again with the water, why the fascination with water? First it is an essential element in all life especially during the early days of life of these crab. Water for drinking as well as moisture in the form of humidity is required to develop his gills to be able to breathe. High humidity is a requirement to the health of your hermit crab. Hermit crabs in the wild will visit the seashore in the evenings to enjoy the dew on the beach and the humidity in the air. His connection to the ocean will remain with him for all his life.

A shell is a crab's home and they are not only uncomfortable when they are out of their home they are at risk to attack from their enemies. Crabs molt to exchange and create a new shell they are very inactive at this time so don't become alarmed and think that something is wrong. They will continue to burrow into the sand but that is about all he will do at this time.

Now you have some of the tools and understand the basic needs of your crab. You will be able to provide the best home to have a healthy, happy crab.

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3 Tips You Should Follow When Feeding Your Pet Rat

Feeding your pet rat can be easy, convenient, and fun. But if you do not know the right way too feed it, the process can be time consuming, expensive, and unhealthy for your pet. This article will provide you with three essential tips you should follow, when feeding your pet.

First, you want to be sure that you provide your pet with a diet catered specifically to rats. This may seem like common since but far too many people fail to follow this advice. While a nutritional mix can be very good for your little guys if done correctly, it can be unhealthy not done the right way. Also, your rat will most likely pick and choose what it decides to eat, and will often not eat everything in the mix. This will cause it to miss out on some important nutrients it may need. An ideal and convenient diet would consist of lab pellets. Be sure to provide pellets per day. Make sure your pellets are made specifically for rats, as hamster, gerbil or other rodent pellets are not a good substitute.
 
Second, you will want to know what fresh foods you can feed your rat. As a supplement, your rat can benefit from a wide variety of fresh foods such as fruits and vegetables. They can give the rat a wide assortment of the vitamins and minerals they need. Remember, to keep in mind your pets size when feeding at, as too much vegetables-especially greens can cause diarrhea. Also make sure that it as an amount that you know your little critter will eat in one day. These animals, by instinct like to store away what they do no eat and do no understand that food spoils. So, your pet may eat food that has gone bad, which may cause them to get sick. Some good options for food include apples, grapes, bananas, strawberries, broccoli, peas, carrots, some very lean cooked meats, meal worms, yogurt, and brown rice. Your rat may also enjoy a special treat now and then, but make sure its healthy. Treats such as popcorn, a peanut, an almond, a small piece of pretzel, dried fruit, a dab of peanut butter or a kibble of dog or cat food are great treats for your pet.
 
Third, you will want to know what foods not to feed your rat. There are lots of foods and treats you can give to your special critter, but you want to make sure that they are not foods that will hurt it. Foods that are high in fat and sugar can be harmful for your rat. So, avoid any table scraps that are high in fat or sugar. Foods such as chocolate, raw beans, green potatoes, cabbage, brussell sprouts, carbonated drinks, caffeinated beverages, or even store brought treats can be very harmful to your pet. Also, feeding your pet too much or too little can be harmful to your pet. Make sure to watch its wait and make sure that it is not overweight or underweight. Consult your vet for a full list of foods that your pet cannot consume.
 
Remember to be sure to have fun when feeding your pet. Watching you little friends eat is a fun and enjoyable adventure in itself. Also, be sure that your has sufficient space to store any food it may not east- as long as it is not fresh food. Your rat will want to store away any pellets it does not eat in a house, so be sure that your rat has a sufficient cage space and a house to store its goodies in. 

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Anacondas - A Prey Slow Memorial Encounter Not to Miss!

Anacondas are highly efficient carnivorous predators. They sheer mass there belies with speed when it comes to capturing their prey and getting there meal. How an anaconda kills is an amazing sight to behold. These creatures live near bodies of water such as streams, rivers, marshes, swamps, ditches and bogs.

They do not stalk their prey nor hunt it down. Instead, they wait for an available animal to wander close and then they attack. Animals falling victim to anacondas either already share the natural habitat of the waterway with the snakes or come close to their habitat in order to find food themselves or drink.

Anacondas can move relatively fast, especially when considering their size when they are in the water. They are much slower on land. So aquatic animals such as fish, frogs and turtles are easy prey for such feared animal! The larger animals the anacondas eat are caught because of the camouflage, stealth and strength of such animal.

Anacondas can slither near the edge of the water, keeping submerged until the last moment. Their natural coloring blends in with the area around them, allowing them to be camouflaged and difficult to see. An unsuspecting bird or land animal may get too close and suddenly find themselves in a death grip without an additional second of survival hope.

For an anaconda kill to occur, the snake coils its powerful body around the victim. Although the snake has teeth, there teeth are not venomous and they can't kill or tear the flesh of the prey. Instead the anaconda holds the animal to maintain its grip and devours its prey slowly to make it a slow and terrible death.

The snake may submerge the victim causing it to drown but all the while the anaconda will slowly squeeze the life out of the animal. As a member of the boa constrictor family, the anaconda uses similar tactics for killing. It uses its body to restrict airflow and circulation of the blood. The victim will either suffocate, drown or be crushed to death. Like explained, in just an instance, the death is a slow yet painful process.

Once the anaconda kill is successful, the snake will commence eating its victim. It usually starts at the head and begins devouring its prey whole, swallowing it until it is completely ingested. The animal will now be digested. This is something that needs to be done quickly else it will rot and cause the anaconda to die of food poisoning. The food is generally either digested quickly or regurgitated. This is a natural process that is highly efficient.

There have been instances of anacondas attacking people but the cases cited are very rare. Currently there are no known, verifiable accounts of an actual anaconda kill on a human victim. The anaconda instead prefers a diet of aquatic animals, birds, rodents, pigs and even jaguars.

Anacondas are able to go long periods of time without eating if necessary. However, they are also not picky eaters, choosing victims based entirely on their availability and ease of attack. Whenever an animal strays too close to one of these snakes, the odds of an anaconda kill are imminent.

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Liquid Cooled Gaming Rig has Awesome Power 3 GTX 285's

This is My 3.6 ghz Gaming Rig, with 3 Gtx 285's in SLI, i7 965 Extreme Processor, Rampage II Extreme Mother Board, Cooler Master 1100 Watt Power Supply, Aquagate Max Water Cooled, 12 gbs of Ram and 2 Sugar Gliders that run on a miniature trans warp tred mill inside my pc to help save the environment. They're going to save the Planet.

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Authors@Google: Hugh Raffles

A stunningly original exploration of the ties that bind us to the beautiful, ancient, astoundingly accomplished, largely unknown, and unfathomably different species with whom we share the world. For as long as humans have existed, insects have existed, too. Wherever weve traveled, theyve traveled, too. Yet we hardly know them, not even the ones were closest to: those that eat our food, share our beds, and live in our homes. Organizing his book alphabetically with one entry for each letter, weaving together brief vignettes, meditations, and extended essays, Hugh Raffles embarks on a mesmerizing exploration of history and science, anthropology and travel, economics, philosophy, and popular culture to show us how insects have triggered our obsessions, stirred our passions, and beguiled our imaginations. Raffles offers us a glimpse into the high-stakes world of Chinese cricket fighting, the deceptive courtship rites of the dance fly, the intriguing possibilities of queer insect sex, the vital and vicious role locusts play in the famines of west Africa, how beetles deformed by Chernobyl inspired art, and how our desire and disgust for insects has prompted our own aberrant behavior. Deftly fusing the literary and the scientific, Hugh Raffles has given us an essential book of reference that is also a fascination of the highest order. HUGH RAFFLES teaches anthropology at The New School. He is the author of In Amazonia: A Natural History, which received the Victor Turner Prize in ...

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DSCF3720

This is a little video of our Rescued Sugar Glider Family. This female Glider Roo lost her mate prior to giving birth to her two twin girl babies, Tazmania (taz for short) and Piglet (since she is always attached to momma nursing) The home I got them from explained that she had taken them in after her daughter no longer wanted them. The daddy was accidentally killed by her dog after knocking the cage over and getting to him. Then came the babies. Right now they are 5 weeks OOP and they are really tame and sweet. The momma has raised these two all alone which in the wild is usually a shared task by the two parents. This momma did not reject them and has done an awesome job of raising them. They are both still nursing and wont be weaned until the momma sees fit. We also have a pair of Gliders that we are fostering for a man that has to go out of town for work for 18 to 20 months. We gladly took them into our home for love and attention and care. Then we have our boy Scooter who we are trying to get the new boys acclimated to as to maybe let him into their colony. We love our six Gliders and look forward to sharing more of our Feathers and Fur babies with you all. We have a store dedicated to parrots and Sugar Gliders at Customparrots.com. If you need supplies, food, toys or other things for either parrots or Gliders come and check us out! K and S Custom Parrots and Exotics is here in Dallas Texas and surrounding areas as well as available on the net to serve you.

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Exotic Pets Stolen, Recovered From Store

A pet supply shop in the Great Mall of the Great Plains was the target of a thief not once, not twice, but three times. The thief stole two pocket parrots, three sugar gliders, a chinchilla, and an aquarium. www.kmbc.com

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Sugar Glider

Pocket Pets had a kiosk set up at the Christiana Mall where they were selling Sugar Gliders and supplies. I worry that people don't realize what a commitment owning these wonderful little creatures is.

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Pet Rat Care - Bumblefoot

What is Bumblefoot?

Bumblefoot is a sore or callus that forms on the bottom or underside of the rat's foot. These sores, if not treated immediately, can rapidly turn to ulcers that are often raw and prone to bleeding. The medical term is ulcerative pododermatitis and it is a complex condition that can be difficult to treat. It has yet to be determined whether or not the bacteria staphylococcus aureus, often found in these ulcers, comes after the sore has begun or is part of the instigation of the problem.

Cause of Bumblefoot.

The jury is still not in as to exactly why our pet rat may develop these ulcers. A few possible causes are as listed below.

Genetic Predisposition is commonly accepted as playing a large part and can explain how one rat may develop this condition yet his rat mates, fed, housed and cared for in exactly the same manner, do not.

Aging rats, particularly overweight pets, tend to be more prone as a result of walking more flat footed and placing more weight on the pad of the foot.

Soiled bedding or dirty flooring can cause infection to develop in wounds. Where solid flooring is used in your pet rat cage, puddles of urine could cause the risk of bacterial infection to occur.

Wired floor cages should be avoided. The uneven surface of wire can cause stress and wounding on a rats foot which again can lead to problems.

Rough bedding such as wood chips are believed to cause foot problems. Look into a softer bedding material, but one that is not too dusty.

Obesity is thought to be a contributing factor and although may not be a direct cause, is certainly must be kept in mind when caring for our rats.

Treatment.

Prevention is better than cure! A few simple steps may help in the prevention of Bumblefoot, however, if your pet rat does develop these sores rapid treatment will help to slow down and hopefully reverse the condition.

If you do own a wire cage, try to use wood or towels that can be tossed away when dirty over the wire.

If you own a cage with solid flooring, regular cleaning is essential. Always ensure bedding is clean and dry and all surfaces are clean and dry too.

Make sure your pet has a good diet. Watch carefully what you feed your rat and not too many treats, they do not need to be overweight to be happy.

If your pet still develops symptoms of Bumblefoot, then I strongly suggest you try a few of the following treatments. As a rule of thumb, I tend to try one for about 7 to 10 days and if no improvement is obvious, then I move onto something else.

Simple soap and water to clean the rats foot, followed by complete drying and a change in bedding, cage flooring and cleaning frequency can often stop the infection in its tracts in the early stages.
Betadine can be tried. Apply several times a day.

I have used True Blu 11 which has been quite effective in some cases. I use this on my horses as it is actually designed for larger animals, but be warned, it is messy.

Diluted grapefruit seed extract can be apply to the lumps a few times a day.

If you can, take your pet to the vet and obtain a cause of antibiotics.

Surgery may be necessary but only as a last resource. Please consider all your options before putting your beloved pet through this procedure.

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Habitrail OVO Loft Hamster Cage Review - Description and Information

The Habitrail OVO Loft Hamster Cage review aims to provide you with the description and information of this cage. This hamster cage is one of the many OVO editions created by Habitrail. In the next few paragraphs, I will touch on the product dimensions, items lists, descriptions and highlight a few comments made by customers who bought this large hamster cage.

1. Dimensions of the Habitrail OVO Loft Hamster Cage

69cm (27in) Long
30cm (12in) Wide
25cm (10in) High

2. Items included in this cool hamster cage

Main Base Area OVO Loft Cage
Two Large Orange Windows/Doors
Silent Habitrail Exercise Wheel
Matching Food Bowl
Cozy Hideaway
Water Bottle
Lock Connector
Loft Cardboard Maze

3. Description of the Habitrail OVO Loft Hamster Cage

This cage is made up of 8 items as listed above. The main base area is where your little animal can run about freely. The rounded corners prevents it from chewing the sides of the cage. The two large doors allows you to have easy access to your pet so that you will have an easier time feeding and playing with it. These easy access doors are secured which prevents your hamsters, gerbils or mice from escaping.

Basic items like the silent Habitrail exercise wheel, food bowl and water bottle are also provided. This means that you do not need to get them on your own. It is great value for your money!

Habitrail also provides a cardboard maze for your pets to explore and also chew on it.

Still not convinced this is the cage for you to house your hamsters? Let us see some reviews by customers who have bought the Habitrail OVO Loft Hamster Cage.

4. Comments made by customers who bought the cage

Positives:

Hamster owners who bought the cage love it because it is very roomy and spacious. The cage is very safe because of the tubes are secured by lock connectors.

In my opinion, it has a good value for money - a big space for a small price. You do not have to worry about wood shavings spilling out of the cage when the hamster burrows because of its high base.

You are also able to have a clear view of hamsters running around in the cage but also giving them enough privacy because of the top of the cage is clear but coloured.

Improvements to be made:

Dwarfs hamsters might be unable to climb vertically up the stairs to the food bowl. It is quite steep for them and is rather slippery. This can be easily solved by placing another food bowl in the cage, where your pets can reach.

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Sugar Gliders As Pets: Vet Approved Cage and Housing Facts

www.asgv.org. Top Vets teach the FACTS about proper Sugar Glider cages and cage supplies.

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Ferret Houses - All You Need to Know

Ferrets are active and energetic little creatures and they tend to get bored quite easily. As such, as a responsible owner it is your responsibility to make their houses an interesting place to live in. Cozy and comfortable bedding, litter trays/ boxes and treats and toys for your ferrets are some of the prime things that are to be included in ferret houses.

Make sure that the ferret shelters are spacious enough to let these frizzy creatures move and play around freely. A ferret house should ideally measure about 18 inches by 30 inches by 36 inches with at least two full levels is best and is strongly recommended for a single ferret or a pair. These little animals prefer to live a lavish life and as such it is important to ensure that you keep their houses decked with proper bedding and litter boxes.

Ferrets are generally clean animals and when it comes to their homes, they prefer clean and neatly decked up houses. Things you need to include within the ferret houses are small water bottles, exercise pens for ferrets, ferret deodorizing sprays, dry ferret foods, ferret hammock, ferret toys and litter boxes.

When choosing a house for your ferret, it is advisable that you choose a metal cage or hard plastic-coated wire cages, preferably the multi-level ones, and make sure that the wire openings do not exceed the standard measurement of 1" by 1". Also, avoid using glass aquariums for ferret homes, as they cut down the air circulation.

For litter boxes, you can use square litter pans rather than the cornered ones. Most of the ferrets love to place all four feet in the litter pan while using it. You should compulsorily keep one litter pan in the cage, preferably at the bottom level. Use a wood or recycled newspaper pellet litter.

Abundance of bedding is required in the cage, as ferrets love to burrow. T-shirts, hammocks, baby blankets, sweatshirts, and snuggle sacks are some of the favorites for ferret bedding. Keep tubes, toys and numerous treats in the cage for your ferrets to have a nice time inside. However, avoid latex, rubber or bean-filled toys.

Finally, keep the ferret houses in a cool area, away from direct sunlight. Ferrets cannot live in high temperatures.

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Know Your Chinchilla Facts

Before buying a chinchilla, has it ever crossed your mind that you have to know what you are getting yourself into? Having a chinchilla as a pet is not easy, and you'd better know the basic chinchilla facts, than get confused later for apparently knowing nothing or too little about chinchillas.

First, differentiating the male from the female chinchillas can be a challenge, as it usually is with most rodents. One clear giveaway in telling a pair of chinchilla couples is the size. Given the same diet, the female chinchilla is usually bigger than the male. The latter can be as heavy as 400-500 grams, whereas females are about 400-600 grams. Looking at the organs might not be very helpful, as the penis of the male chinchilla only shows usually after three months. By the third month, a chinchilla will have reached puberty. By the 8th month, it is ready to breed.

As for female chinchillas, they can be pregnant for as much as twice a year. Since the gestation period normally takes 111 days, a time allowance in between two pregnancies is recommended. To make sure that a pair of chinchillas will not breed, separating their cage is the most advisable thing to do. A mother chinchilla will give birth to a litter of 1 to 3 kits, the name for baby chinchillas. Once born, a kit is already fully developed and does not need intense caring from its parents. The normal weight of baby chinchillas is 35-40 grams.

Upon growing, chinchillas will develop stronger teeth. As it does, you have to supply its cage with a lot of wood and toys that they can chew on. These objects will help them sharpen their teeth and ensure that they don't get too sharp.

Chinchillas will also develop their own personalities as they grow up. Although its unique traits should be observable upon birth, they will be more prominent upon growing up. Take note of these key traits as they will not only help you differentiate chinchillas from each other but will also help in communicating with them.

A claim to fame of these rodents is its highly valuable fur. Considered endangered for its expensive fur, chinchillas had been viciously hunted until the end of the 19th century. With 150 to 250 chinchillas, a stylish coat made of chinchilla can be made.

Because of the uncontrollable rate at which chinchillas were being hunted and killed, something had to be done with the situation. This explains the presence of many chinchilla farms around. These provide a healthy breeding environment for chinchillas, which was meant to supply the increasing demand of chinchilla fur for clothing. However, with the times changing in favor of animal rights and against the killing of chinchillas for clothes, these animal farms began to serve an altogether different purpose: providing an unconventional alternative to pets like dogs, cats and other rodents.

Chinchillas are a breath of fresh air. Very few people have them and once they do, they simply cannot help but love them. Martha Stewart, in fact, confesses her love for the creatures and even owns as much as 15 of them! With the distinct nature of chinchillas, there is every reason why you should have them as your new pets. Knowing your chinchilla facts can be a enlightening experience.

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The Lowdown on Chinchilla Care

Do you want your chinchillas to reach its optimum age of 20 years? Chinchillas can last that long, but only if you care for it well enough. A lot of people have no idea how proper chinchilla care should even be done and end up relying on their own instincts. Chinchilla are delicate creatures and relying on "gut feelings" to know how to take care of them will only compromise its health and ultimately shorten its life. If you love your pet chinchilla, you surely want neither of that.

Moderating the Temperature

The function of sweat glands is to release the heat in the body in liquid form. This way, your body can adapt to increasing temperature without causing a breakdown in your system. Ever notice how your body starts sweating when you're just too tired or the heat is becoming too much to bear? That's your sweat glands at work.

Unlike you, your chinchilla doesn't have sweat glands. Obviously, this means that it doesn't have an ingenious way of adapting to increasing temperatures. Once the temperature becomes too much to take, it will most likely suffer of heatstroke. The threshold of chinchillas when it comes to handling temperature is much lower, partly due to its lack of a complex immune system and tiny body. The ideal temperature is 65-70. Anything beyond will be harmful for your chinchilla.

Also, if you think its thick fur will protect it from the cold, you are alarmingly mistaken. Immediately beneath its thick layer of fur is its skin. In other words, the only thing protecting your chinchilla from harsh temperatures, including the cold, is its fur. If the environment gets either too hot or too cold, your chinchilla will have undesirable complications and may even die.

Finding a Vet

Though chinchillas make perfect pets, they are classified as exotic. This doesn't just mean that they are endangered and are not allowed to be used for animal clothing. In pet lingo, this means that they're much harder to care for and required much more attention that your average domesticated pet. Unlike cats, you can't simply leave food for them and expect them to get through the day. Chinchillas must be taken to the veterinarian regularly.

How do you find a veterinarian for exotic pets? Consider it a challenge that you will have to go through. Don't settle for just any vet who claims to have an experience with rodents. Make sure you get someone that actually knows how to deal with chinchillas.

The price you will be paying the vet for your chinchilla should be no more than what you'll pay for other pets, like dogs or cats. You want the best chinchilla care, but be careful about getting overpriced services. It all boils down to how well you look for a vet that 1) has a specialization in exotic pets such as chinchillas and 2) knows how to name the price right. With both bases covered, you will have found a veterinarian that will do everything in his or her power to extend your pet's lifespan to its optimum age.

Moderating the temperature and finding the perfect vet are just two of the many ways by which you can show your pet chinchilla love and affection. Consider these two steps as a positive start to a long life with your adorable rodent.

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A Ferret's Nutritional Needs

Ferrets are animals that are delicate and needs a lot of attention whether it is on their diet or nutritional needs. If they are not given proper diet, they could be at risk on a serious health problem. Ferrets are meat eater and they could not survive on high fiber and low protein food. In the past, ferrets are given cat food since it is the only source closest to their dietary needs.

Today, ferret owners need not worry about their pet's nutritional needs since professionals that have spent a lot of time studying on ferrets' nutritional needs have formulated the perfect food for your pet ferret. This helps ferrets achieve a healthy and happy life giving them the right combination of protein and fat. Baby ferrets have different nutritional needs and you don't have to worry since a lot of available brands in the market today so your baby ferret would get the right amount of nutritional needs. One good thing about ferrets is that they eat a minimal amount of food so it is not that expensive. And let me remind you that ferrets are very choosy when it comes to their food; they have the tendency to starve themselves if they don't like the food given to them.

Ferrets should eat twice every day to gain the calorie and the energy they need so only a small portion of food is given to them. If you give your ferret a moist diet, make sure that you have to take it out after 45 minutes. You can also try to giving your ferret dry pellets and always make sure that it has available fresh water. Ferrets like to drink their water in a bowl rather that in a bottle. So you have to make sure that you change their water every 1 or 2 hours.

Aside from giving your ferret their usual food, you can also give them a treat but not often. Giving your ferret treats with high sugar can cause nutritional problems like malnutrition, tooth decay, obesity, insolinoma, intestinal blockage hypoglycemia and diarrhea. It would also give them the reason to refuse on their normal diet. Vegetables and grains are not well digested, so avoid giving them. Never, ever give them onions! It is considered to be poisonous to them.

Proper nutrition, healthy grooming will give your ferret a happy and comfortable long life. It also helps minimize stress in them and diseases. Ferrets are playful, loving and affectionate animal much like to dogs and cats. Giving them the proper diet together with your love and affection towards them will give your pet a perfect long life with you.

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Fleece Ferret Hammock

So what's with the latest craze about the fleece ferret hammock amidst ferret owners? If you've been around many ferret owners you may have noticed that almost all of them either are talking about it or already have one. The reason is that it one of the most versatile devices you can get for your ferret.

The fleece ferret hammock isn't like the traditional human hammock for a few reasons. Most obviously, a human won't fit into one (please don't try). These hammocks are customized for your ferret's body shape and size. This means it will automatically fold just enough to wrap around your ferret's body and shield it from light. Ferrets love dark places to sleep. The hammock is also very inviting to them as a bed because it puts them into their natural sleeping position, and of course, fleece is soft.

In the fleece ferret hammock your ferret will also find hours of enjoyment in using it as a toy. You can really tell that your ferret is having a blast when it's swinging away in this device. Be forewarned that you need to be careful in setting it up because of this. They may smack themselves on the sides of the cage if you aren't careful.

This may not seem like all that much, but ferrets have three primary activities. These are eating, sleeping, and playing. This cheaply-purchased hammock covers two out of three, and if you wanted three out of three it obviously wouldn't last very long.

You should also keep in mind that they do require some maintenance if you decide to get one. It's important, but not that elaborate. Throw it in the wash every week or every other week, and check it for fraying or splitting. It's a very rude wake up call for your ferret to be swinging and then fall tumbling from his hammock.

So grab yourself enough money for a few cups worth of coffee and get headed out to your local pet megastore or go searching the internet for one and you'll have a happy, well-rested ferret for some time to come.

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Sugar Gliders: Tiny Acrobats

In the last decade or so, the popularity of sugar gliders as pets has grown considerably. The small size of these furry acrobats, their personalities, their plush fur, their large eyes, their agility and their ability to bond closely with humans have attracted legions of new sugar glider devotees.

What is a sugar glider and where did they originally come from? Sugar gliders are small marsupials and members of the possum family. They are found in Australia, Tasmania, Indonesia, and New Guinea. Their scientific name is Petaurus breviceps. Most sugar gliders these days are captive-bred and not wild-caught.

Like their larger marsupial cousins, kangaroos, sugar gliders have a pouch where their infants grow and develop. Their young are called "joeys," as are the young of kangaroos. You may come across the term OOP while researching sugar gliders on the internet. OOP means "out-of-pouch" and it indicates how long the joey has been completely out of his mother's pouch. Joeys are ready to go to a new home at approximately 8 weeks OOP.

Sugar gliders are approximately chipmunk-sized, measuring about 9 to 12 inches long (including their long tail), and they weigh about 3 to 6 ounces as adults. Their normal color is steel gray to brownish with a black stripe down the back, but selective breeding in captivity has brought out other color variations, including albinos. In captivity, they can live as long as 15 years, although 8 to 12 years is more usual.

One of the most distinguishing features of sugar gliders is a thin membrane, called a patagium, that stretches between their front and rear legs, much like the more familiar flying squirrels of North America. This is what allows them to glide from tree to tree. When they glide, the skin spreads out, making sugar gliders look like furry kites! When the sugar glider is sitting, the patagium looks like ruffled furry skin, shaped somewhat like the edge of lasagna noodles.

Their tail is not prehensile, unlike their more familiar American opossum cousins. That means that sugar gliders cannot grasp, grip and hang from their tails. Instead, the tail is used as a balancing and stabilizing tool, especially while gliding.

Sugar gliders are nocturnal, which means they are active at night. They have very large (relative to their size) eyes, which help them see at night. They also have large ears, an obvious benefit to an animal who is both preyed-upon and a predator. Those big ears allow them to hear even the smallest sound.

Sugar gliders have fixed teeth, incisors, molars, and premolars. You should not trim your sugar glider's teeth. Unlike some species, such as guinea pigs, their teeth do not continue to grow once mature. If a tooth falls out, it is not replaced. Wild gliders chew on branches and in the process, clean their teeth. Gliders in cages will also chew on branches.

Sugar gliders have 5 toes on their front feet. Each toe ends with a very sharp claw that helps them land when they glide. Those claws also make gliders very agile climbers. Their hind feet also have 5 toes, but one of them is an enlarged, clawless opposable toe. An opposable toe means that they can use that toe to grip things, much as humans' opposable thumbs allow us to do the same.

Why are they called "sugar gliders"? In the wild, sugar gliders eat, as part of their diet, manna (a crusty sugar left where sap flowed from a tree trunk or branch) and honeydew (an excess sugar produced by sap-sucking insects). In captivity, sugar gliders have a fondness for sweet foods. They will eat too many sweets if allowed, so sweet foods must be rationed.

In the wild, sugar gliders nest in holes of trees in colonies of 7 to 15 members and have been observed gliding as far as 300 feet! The ability to glide is one of the most amazing features of sugar gliders, and one of the things that makes them such special pets. Teaching your sugar glider to glide to you is very rewarding!

Sugar gliders are social animals, which means they live in groups. They get along with and love the company other sugar gliders, and many sugar glider owners choose to have more than one glider. It is their social nature that allows them to develop strong bonds with their human owners. But it is also that social nature that creates their need for attention from their owners. Sugar gliders are not the kind of pet that can be left for long periods of time without any attention from their owners. The more time you spend with your sugar glider, the more he will become bonded with you.

Many sugar glider owners bond with their new gliders by carrying them around in a bonding pouch for several hours a day while the glider sleeps. Sugar gliders are sometimes called "pocket pets" because they will often curl up in your pocket and go to sleep!

Diet and housing are perhaps the two most important factors in deciding whether a sugar glider is the right pet for you. Sugar gliders require a varied diet consisting of a protein source (meat, insects, etc.), a fruit and/or vegetable source, and a supplement of calcium. There are commercial sugar glider dry and soft-pellet foods available, but it is not recommended that you feed your sugar glider a diet consisting solely of these commercial foods. Sugar gliders require fresh food sources in addition to any commercial food. Calcium is also crucial to their diet, and there are a number of products on the market that will allow you to easily add calcium to your sugar glider's diet.

Sugar gliders require as tall a cage as possible. They feel safer up high because they are normally tree-dwellers. 30 inches tall is usually the bare minimum for a sugar glider cage, but most breeders and sugar glider experts recommend cages 4 feet tall or higher. Many sugar glider owners buy flight cages designed for finches and other small birds. The flight cages are tall enough and roomy enough for a sugar glider. It is also recommended that sugar glider owners permit their gliders supervised play time in a glider-safe room for at least several hours a day.

Although sugar gliders are loving, affectionate and adorable, it is recommended that an adult closely supervise any young children around sugar gliders.

The cost of a sugar glider is approximately $150 to $250. If the glider must be shipped to you via airplane, there will be an additional cost. Certain desirable color variations can raise the price of a sugar glider considerably.

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Hammock Chairs - Installation Instructions

www.hammockchairs.biz This video shows you how to install your newly purchased hammock chair.

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Hammock Swing Chairs - Hanging a Hammock Swing Made Simple

1. PREPARATION

Have you found the perfect tree branch for hanging your hammock swing chair? Have you determined that the branch is strong enough to support a hammock swing? Is the tree branch level so that the chain supporting the chair will not slide? Have you cleared the ground area of large foliage and debris and created a level surface? If you are ready to enjoy your relaxing hangout but are having difficulty starting the process, follow these simple guidelines. There are many supplies which will work for hanging a hammock swing chair from a tree, but here is just one approach which involves the help of a friend, the use of a tape measure and a sturdy ladder, as well as the purchase of these items:

-Link or Coil Chain

-Quick Links (Quantity 2)

-Plastic Tubing

Before you go to the hardware store, ask a friend to help you to measure for hammock swing chair hanging supplies. You will use the tape measure to determine the length of the chain and plastic tubing (for tree protection) needed for properly suspending your hammock swing. The chain will fit inside the plastic tubing before you wrap it around the branch.

While you carefully stand on the ladder with a tape measure in hand, have your assistant hold up the hammock swing chair so that the bottom of the chair is approximately 2 feet above ground level. Keep in mind the hammock swing stretches when someone sits in it, so you will have to allow for this factor, also. Now calculate the distance up from the hanging ring (attached to the top of your hammock swing chair) to the bottom of the branch, plus the additional distance that is needed to encircle the branch with chain. Add eight inches to this number to allow some slack. (In other words, measure the circumference of the branch, add the eight inches slack, and add the additional distance you measured the chain must hang down to reach the hanging ring.) The length of the plastic tubing should be the circumference of the tree branch plus eight inches of slack.

Remember, you are encircling the chain around a living and growing tree and you want to protect the cambium of the tree with the plastic tubing. Be sure to write your calculations for chain length and tubing length onto a note pad so that you are not scratching your head and trying to remember what you measured later when you are at the store purchasing your supplies.

2. SHOPPING AT A HARDWARE STORE

Visit your local hardware store to buy the necessary supplies:

Outdoor Link or Coil Chain (Read chain label and select chain with strength to support significantly more than the weight capacity of your hammock swing chair, for example, 1000 lbs.)

Quick Links--Quantity 2 (These links look like a link of chain with the addition of a side that can be unscrewed to be attached to a link of chain. Select Quick Links that will hold significantly more than the weight capacity of the hammock swing chair, for example 1000 lbs. Check to make sure that two links of your chain will fit on the Quick Link selected.)

Plastic tubing (This tubing can be found in the plumbing section of most hardware stores. Select a type big enough for the chain to slip through the tube.)

The sizes and dimensions of supplies required to hang a hammock swing will vary according to the type of chair, height of tree branch and circumference of tree branch, etc.

3. HANGING YOUR HAMMOCK SWING CHAIR

Once you have purchased your premeasured length of chain, the two Quick Links, and the predetermined length of clear plastic tubing, you are ready to hang your hammock swing chair with the help of your friend.

First, slip the chain into and through the plastic tubing before you climb up on the ladder.

Second, carefully climb the ladder and encircle the tree branch with the part of the chain that is running through the plastic tubing.

Third, connect one end link of the chain back to the body of the chain with one of the Quick Links, allowing for the slack. (Remember the slack allows for continued growth of the branch.) Before you actually tighten this Quick Link, check to see that the remainder of the chain that is hanging down extends the appropriate distance to meet the hammock ring. Having your helper hold up the hammock swing so that the bottom of the chair is the proper distance from the ground will help you make this final adjustment so that you have neither an excess or shortage of chain available. (Be sure to allow for the fact that the hammock swing chair flexes downward when you sit in it because the material stretches to some degree.)

Fourth, connect the hammock swing chair hanging ring to the end of the dangling chain with the remaining Quick Link.

Finally, if there are no minor adjustments to make in the placement of the Quick Links, tighten the Quick Links appropriately, move the ladder out of the way, and enjoy sitting in your hammock swing chair. Have a relaxing day.

ENJOY RELAXATION IN YOUR HAMMOCK SWING CHAIR WITH A GENTLE BREEZE. REMEMBER THAT HAMMOCK SWING CHAIRS ARE NOT TOYS. PROPELLED SWINGING MOTION IS NOT ADVISED.

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Welcome to my http://hc-hammock-chairs.blogspot.com/ Here you will learn about …. tips and how to find information.